"Pura Vida" (Pure Life): A Return
to Innocence in Costa Rica

by Amy Scholten, M.P.H.

The modern world sometimes begets us with an insidious form of entropy that can lead to a jaded state of mind. It may take the form of joyless striving, numbness, apathy, confusion, or cynicism. In this uninspired mindset, we grasp for what we think will make us "happy" or "secure," but what we really long for is to feel truly alive .

How is it that we end up in this state? Perhaps it's the long hours we put in at a tedious or stressful job. Or we're worn down by the impersonal values of our time: competition, individualism, materialism/consumption, superficial relationships, endless advertising, alienation, slick media presentations, and information overload. Ah, the plasticity of it all! In any case, when we're not inspired, something has gone wrong. We need to renew ourselves...but how?

Unexpected Inspiration in a Far Away Land

For me, a trip to the country is usually the harbinger of some self-renewal. But most recently, it was a trip out of the country  to the exquisitely beautiful land of Costa Rica that harkened the return of my inspiration. Pura vida or "pure life" is the national slogan of Costa Rica, and once I visited, I knew why. This tropical paradise is home to lush rain forests, magnificent waterfalls, rich and succulent fruit, multi-colored iridescent hummingbirds, toucans,

playful monkeys, sleepy sloths, an endless array of HUGE flowers, tranquil beaches, active volcanoes, and peaceful people who live respectfully in harmony with nature. Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention: it's also full of surprises!

Costa Rica was an experience that left me not only inspired but completely overwhelmed. It was the first time I had ever awakened in a rainforest...and to the sounds of howler monkeys bellowing and banging on the rooftops of the lodge. Despite that this took place at the ungodly hour of 5:00 a.m., I couldn't help but greet the day with delight. And then there were moments when, while walking to breakfast or sitting in a boat on the canal, the sky would open up and a deluge of rain would fall like I had never seen before. Again, the experience of pure delight washed over me. Gone was my usual urge to grab an umbrella. I reclaimed a long-forgotten innocence. And so I chased after blue morpho butterflies like a child. I delved into new foods like palmitos, thrilled to learn that not only can one eat these "hearts" of palms, but also that they are delicious! I found myself smiling at people I didn't know and getting a kick out of saying "Buenos dias!" I even let things crawl on me that I normally wouldn't...like caterpillars.

Fear-not Suspended Bridges and Crocodile-laden Waters!

The most terrifying part of the trip wasn't driving over suspended bridges, riding up winding mountain roads, or lingering in crocodile-laden waters. It was a day on the canals of Tortugeuro National Park when our boat driver backed into a wasp's nest. We were stung repeatedly on the face, neck and hands...something that very well could have happened amidst the comforts of the home lawn and garden. Unfortunately, my immediate reaction was to think that we were being attacked by some exotic, poisonous jungle insects and were going to die. I screamed hysterically for the tour director, Jorge, to move the boat. As  I hyperventilated, he calmly approached me, gently pulling wasps from my rain poncho. Seasoned with the ways of nature in the jungle, but with a concerned and sympathetic look, he might as well have said "Wasp stings just happen sometimes," and all was well again.

From the first momement I laid eyes on this beautiful land, I noticed the deep respect that Costa Ricans appear to have for nature, which is evident in their conservation efforts. Despite being one of the first countries to have electricity, Costa Rica does not flaunt it. As we flew into the capital city of San Jose on our first night, I couldn't get over how unlike an American city it looked. There were no bright lights screaming out at the sky...just tiny lights modestly and respectfully dotting the hills.

Pura Vida: The Source of Our Most Primal Knowledge and Joy

Pura vida was everywhere. I saw it in the smiles of children who walked arm-in-arm on town commons. I saw it in families who were hugging and playing on the steps of a church. I saw a lot of "wealth" among those we would consider materially poor. Many of them had bicycles instead of cars but didn't need health club memberships. Some of them lived in shanties without screens but could breathe fresh air and pick papayas, bananas and mangoes right out of their own yards.  Real, whole food was abundant, in contrast to the manufactured, adulterated pseudo-foods that were so ubiquitous back home. McDonald's and other chain stores were rare sights. So was obesity. The natives looked healthy, happy and fit. Their faces didn't appear etched with stress, perhaps because they weren't striving so much. "Keeping up with the Joneses" didn't seem to be as important as strong ties with families and neighbors.

Equally impressive, the Costa Ricans we saw didn't seem as preoccupied as Americans with ipods, cell phones, and other "must have" gadgets. Perhaps it's because they knew how to access the most primal knowledge and joy from the natural, simple things...like the swaying palms and deep, booming, thunder-filled skies.

The authenticity of the experience is what struck me most. In this land so wild and untouched, my usual foreboding and cynicism was replaced with a sense of innocence and wonder. It was the essence of pura vida. It was the most valuable thing I knew I could bring back from Costa Rica.

And so I left Costa Rica in hopes of readjusting to my American life as a changed person. How so?

...With dreams of paying  more attention to the pure life around me
...With hopes of seeing and accepting the true nature of everything
...With desires of playing a more active role in conserving our precious natural resources

So I try to focus on the pura vida as I walk through my own scenic neightborhood now, despite the loud bass of stereos and frequent discharges of stinky exhaust from anonymous large vehicles that speed past me. For a moment my mind goes back to the free hearts and genuine smiles of rural Costa Ricans who proudly stood by the road, waving at our tour bus. A profound sadness washes over me when I realize that I've lived in my neighborhood for seven years and don't even know most of my neighbors. We're too busy striving. Automatic garage doors have sucked us up into our large, exclusive, suburban fortresses where we stare at computer screens and enjoy manufactured foods in private.

Uh oh, is that my cynicism returning?

Thunderclouds are closing in on the blazing sun. A warm breeze caresses me in its loving arms. Raindrops begin their cheerful dance off the lush, green ferns and the rose petals. Pura vida. Pura vida. Pura vida. Costa Rica calls me back home.